A Day Among the Vineyards

The average university student may not bother to take the 40-minute trip out to Murrumbateman.

But, hidden among the hills and dusty backroads is a delightful day out.

The morning sunlight dapples against the green hills as we roll into Murrumbateman. The drive is shorter than I expected, but the dirt roads are alien compared to Canberra’s familiar bitumen.

Gallagher Wines is a welcoming sight at 10am and greets us with blue skies and a rolling field of vineyards.

Lauren Gallagher, the winemaker who is fondly referred to as the 'Sinister Apprentice', stands waiting for us, framed by the cellar door.

The cellar door at Gallaghers Wines

The cellar door at Gallaghers Wines

The view as you come to park

The view as you come to park

Lauren greets us with a friendly hello, a stark contrast to her nickname, and with the help of her father and head winemaker Greg, are quick to bring out glasses and a plate of cheese.

The cheese here is locally produced, made by Lauren's Mum Libby as well as Lauren's wife. My favourite is the chilli labne.

A vineyard. The foreground includes a bay of brown gravel. Onwards, sitting on green grass are rows of grape vines. In the background is a white building. There is a red warning sign situated in the middle, warding guests from going near the vineyard.

A Gallagher's cheese platter, featuring their signature Duet

A Gallagher's cheese platter, featuring their signature Duet

I ask Lauren how I should interpret the wine, but she's quick to shut that train of thought down.

There's a misconception that people don't know about wine, but Lauren says "you decide what you like or dislike. You're your own critic, you don't have to deconstruct it to enjoy it."

So I don't. And out comes the next bottle, one that is different from the rest.

A bright pink label to rival the colour of the liquid, Lauren pours what will become my favourite wine from Gallagher's.

It's Lauren's signature Sangiovi Rosé, which she made simply because the winery didn't have a Rosé, and she was keen to stamp her mark on her own wine.

Lauren Gallagher's signature Sangiovi Rosé, poured into a glass at our tasting.

A red jug sits on a glass table. The foreground features a bush and a glass, obscuring a persons face.

The "tipoon"

A woman and man stand smiling at the camera. The man has his arm around the woman, who wears a purple shirt.

Lauren and Greg Gallagher

The wine even tastes pink, which I didn't know could be a description until I tried it.

There is an undercurrent of spice to Lauren's Rosé, which is melded seamlessly with the taste of sugar plums, strawberries, and cream.

You might think these flavours would make the wine heavy, but Gallagher's Sangiovi Rosé is incredibly light.

Lauren is full of stories, and says that engaging with guests on a personal level like she is with us is one of the things she most enjoys about this experience.

"Whilst we want to sell wine," she says, "we also want to give a good experience."

And part of giving that good experience, is telling a good story.

One such story is how COVID-19 has impacted the small things in the cellar. The spitoon, previously used to physically spit wine into, is now called a "tipoon," where wine that isn't consumed is simply poured into.

"It's more COVID safe."

By 11am we're back on the dirt road, weaving our way through cow paddocks and grape vines until we find ourselves at Granitevale Estate.

Granitevale Estate invites us in with green fields and orange trees, one of the first signs I've seen of Autumns leisurely approach.

It's a short walk into the winery, speckled with pockets that show the community that makes up the vineyard.

There is a popular wedding gazebo in the fields, signs hanging against the tin fence, and chalk drawings against the cellar doors.

The front view of Granitevale Estate, a popular wedding location

The front view of Granitevale Estate, a popular wedding location

Chalk artwork in the front

Chalk artwork in the front

These drawings were done by the grandaughter of Granitevale Estate's owner, Greg Birch. He's keeping it there as an art piece.

It fits with the theme. Granitevale has a distinct eclectic yet cosy design, decorated with a hodgepodge of different furniture, paintings, and formations.

A group of people walking on a dirt road. There are framed by two metal sheds and a blue, cloud filled sky.

A group of people walk into a white tarp covered building. There are barrels standing vertical with slabs of metal on top, creating tables. In the distance are green vineyards and a blue sky.

A collection of different kinds of tables and chairs inside a room with metal and wooden walls. Artworks hang on the walls, and in the corner is a stone fireplace.

Inside Granitevale Estate

A set of three Aboriginal Australian dot paintings, hanging on a tin and wooden wall.

Some of the artwork that pays homage to the region

A pair of people stand on one side of a bar, with a man standing on the other. There are two white boxes between them, and a row of different wine bottles that line the table

A couple talking to Ryan and making a purchase

A fashion mannequin sits in the corer of a bookshelf, table, and mirror, sitting by the bar. The mannequin has a scarf around it's neck

Granitevale Estate's ecelectic nature displayed

Granitevale makes the wine that first introduced me to my palette, and is a wine I have enjoyed immensely as I’ve begun my wine journey - this is their Sauvignon Blanc.

When trying it here, I found it was instantly familiar, like coming home after a long day and curling up with friends for a movie night.

Unlike most Sauvignon Blancs, Granitevale's is far more full bodied, and gives it a rich and creamy taste.

Ryan, Greg's nephew, tells me it's a white a lot of people enjoy. I can see why.

Ryan and the wines of Granitevale Estate

Ryan and the wines of Granitevale Estate

He adds that this enjoyment is one of the reasons he enjoys working here, "it's nice," he says. "Working here is relaxing."

And it's something that can certainly be felt in this entire region. We almost lose track of time.

But once Midday rolls around, it's important to get lunch.

After all, you should never drink on an empty stomach.

A wall mural depicting a shed and a collection of barns, the text reads "Wins Creek Meadery".

Win's Creek Meadery wall mural

Win's Creek Meadery & Cafe offers a unique reprieve from wine, offering honey, pizza, and well, mead.

Walking up to it feels like stepping into an illustrated children's book, with much of the Historic Travellers Rest Inn well preserved.

Inside however, Maryanne and Michael Devy's bistro is distinctly bee themed.

Along the walls are tapestries celebrating honey and bees, the walls are painted in sweet murals, and the shelves are lined with Maryanne's pottery, which is also for sale.

Inside Win's Creek Meadery

Inside Win's Creek Meadery

Their signature mead and honey - which is from their secondary business Bindaree Bee Supplies, lines the window, overlooking the outdoor seating area.

I ask them why they have based not one, but two businesses on honey, and their response is humbling.

They tell me how working with bees and honey provides "a connection with nature and the environment that inspires [us]. I’m not religious, but there’s a spiritual connection as well".

An old style inn with a sign that says "Wins Creek Meadery," the sun shines through, cast light flares across the camera frame.

Lunch consisted of a mead tasting and pizza. Maryanne and Michael do make a standard Hawaiian, but their forte are more signature recipes.

My favourite however, was something pretty unique. If you're after a dessert style pizza that isn't as jarring as say, a chocolate pizza, then look no further than their pear pizza.

Inspired by a pear and brie tart, the pear pizza has that perfect blend between sweet and savory that makes sugared popcorn or hot chips in a soft-serve popular.

The cheese provided a rich base for the sweet pear, and the walnuts on top gave it the perfect crunch.

Instead of choosing individual meads to try, we choose to get a tasting tray. Michael is an expert, and gives suggestions on the order we taste them, and even speaks about the process on how these meads were developed.

Maryanne and Michael are practical, and create the flavours of their meads seasonally, as different fruits grow available over the 12 month period it takes to brew.

Now, anyone who knows me knows I hold an avid distaste for passionfruit, yet, my favourite mead here is, surprisingly, the mango and passion-fruit blend.

It tasted like a sharper mango, and was creamier than I expected. When I tried it, it physically drew me back, and I could only react with a surprised 'oh'.

The mead in question

The mead in question

Clocking well into the afternoon we fall back onto the highway, making our way to McKellar Ridge Wines.

McKellar Ridge holds an air of serenity when you arrive. The birdsong is close, and the blue sky hangs lightly above you.

The vineyard sits by the side of the cellar door, in fresh view of the outdoor seating area. Winemakers John and Marina are more than inviting, and bring us inside to avoid what is starting to grow into a chilly afternoon.

Inside, the winery boasts a collection of paintings from local artists, including recogniseable scenes from iconic Canberra locations such as Tilly's or our urban farms.

Red wines are unique in the region. Murrumbatemen is one of the highest altitude regions, and the wineries here sit at the higher points.

The end result is a red that Marina tells me is a lot lighter than most people are used to in Australian wines.

One that I completely adored was 'The Trio', which is a Cabernet Blend, and unique to McKellar Ridge.

It reminds me of violets and raspberry, and is bolder than I expected. Yet there's a weight to it that feels incredibly familiar, and is one I come to enjoy immensely.

What was most exciting was the opportunity to explore behind the scenes, which Marina and John love to encourage.

They say there's something "magical" about wine, and that they love "inviting cellar door guests to see what we are up to in the vineyard and winery, as it is such a fun and creative adventure."

And it truly feels that way. On display is the current shiraz, and Marina tells me the cap, which is the dried skins of the grapes that occur during the fermentation process, is ready to be pushed.

While we talk, guests naturally make their way inside, and Marina actively engages with them whilst mixing the fermenting wine. She even gives me a go, and it's far more difficult that I expect.

We end the day with Dionysus Winery.

Named for the Ancient Greek God of Wine and nestled in a grove of vineyards, Dionysus Winery holds all the reverie and joy that you would expect from their namesake.

One of the quirkiest things about the place is their menus. Wendy, co-owner of Dionysus with her husband Michael, has gutted out a collection of Little Golden Books and bound the wine menu inside.

It feels like opening a fairy tale, except the contents are an Ancient Greek myth.

The entire winery holds a distinctly whimsical feel, which is only added to with the addition of the sculpture and picnic garden.

And this magic is intentional. Wendy tells me that wine is something to love, and something she loves, because it's always different. "You can open a bottle of coke and it's the exact same," she says. "Whereas wine has it's own story, it's own history."

"When you take a bottle of our wine, it's not just wine, but it's a story, it's us, our history. And that's unique for every bottle."

And you can feel this in the wine.

The cool climate of the region strikes again, with a stunning red, which is my favourite wine from Dionysus - the Shiraz Viognier.

It’s much lighter than I was expecting, but is still "fruit forward" - this is when you can taste the fruity notes in it.

It's also quite peppery, which is typical of a shiraz, but the pepper is striking here, without growing overpowering.

I've always been quite wary of a shiraz, as I've never been a fan of the more savoury wine, but this one was warmer, and I found myself enjoying it.

The Owners, Wendy and Michael

The Owners, Wendy and Michael

Wendy and Michael are eager to share their love of wine, and say that wine isn't something that is snobby, or something to be intimidated by,

"Come out and explore the wineries," Wendy says, "because it's not just about the wines, it's about the people too."

Tastings at these wineries range from $5 - $15, which is pretty affordable for a day out. Overall, the total average cost for each of us was $35, minus lunch, which we shared.

Provided you have a designated driver, a day in the Murrumbateman Wine Region is an extraordinary and relaxing day out, and one I'll be sure to repeat as I share my newfound love of wine with the rest of my friends.

Besides, now I need to buy a bottle or 5.

Produced by Journalism and Sports Media students;
Published by the Faculty of Arts and Design, University of Canberra